New Install and No Spark

[Mattb]

Thanks Steve.

I'm planning on fitting the Bluetooth module for cal switching but not immediately.

Under cal switching in scal I can't seem to find a way of changing the cal I'm on. Presumably I'm looking in the wrong place.

[stevieturbo]

Thanks Steve.

I'm planning on fitting the Bluetooth module for cal switching but not immediately.

Under cal switching in scal I can't seem to find a way of changing the cal I'm on. Presumably I'm looking in the wrong place.

The video should cover anything.

If you've no cal switch connected it would default to Cal 01. Just look on the right side to see which Cal is active or open up a gauge.

[Mattb]

Thanks Steve.

The car is all up and running now. Yeeeeha

I think is running rich though on the base map I have, has a lambda/wideband O2 voltage of .79 ish at idle going up to .9 at 3k ish. It's also slightly lumpy at cold idle so I think I just need to get it mapped now. The only conundrum is I'm expecting a new carbon fibre air box towards the end of the month.. don't really want to have to drive up there twice if i can help it.

Still, great fun just to get out the garage at last.

[TimH]

Glad it's running

To get the lambda vaguely right before it's mapped, and purely for initial running purposes, you can use the global fuel mutliplier to get it nearer to stoich.

[stevieturbo]

IMO you'd need to get it up to normal operating temperature first before worrying too much about altering mixtures.

Then work on getting a half decent idle speed and mixture so at least some base work is correct and sensible.

As well as working through and ensuring all sensors are working and reading sensible values etc

And whilst it hasnt really been shouted about here, there is now a pretty decent manual to help you through things

http://www.syvecs.com/downloads/Syvecs% ... 20V1.1.pdf

as well as the help videos

https://www.youtube.com/user/SyvecsHelp/videos

[Mattb]

Hi Steve,
have got the car up to temperature, everything runs as expected. All sensors are working, fans cut in perfectly, throttle bodies have been balanced and idle is good. I have driven the car a couple of miles thats when I noticed it was running on the rich side at low rpm.

I have used the manual considerably and once you get you r head round it, it is useful.

The one thing I'm not 100% clear about is the min throttle position. With the MBE management when I balanced the throttle bodies I would have to click "reset throttle position" this in turn would tell the ECU that the throttle potentiometers are at there new zero position. Does this need to be done manually with the S^ or does it re-calibrate itself each start up.

[stevieturbo]

Hi Steve,
have got the car up to temperature, everything runs as expected. All sensors are working, fans cut in perfectly, throttle bodies have been balanced and idle is good. I have driven the car a couple of miles thats when I noticed it was running on the rich side at low rpm.

I have used the manual considerably and once you get you r head round it, it is useful.

The one thing I'm not 100% clear about is the min throttle position. With the MBE management when I balanced the throttle bodies I would have to click "reset throttle position" this in turn would tell the ECU that the throttle potentiometers are at there new zero position. Does this need to be done manually with the S^ or does it re-calibrate itself each start up.

It really depends on what you're messing with with regards a "closed" throttle.

There is only one minimum position, and that is closed.

So you can set closed/open a number of ways.

either set these to 0 % and 100% respectively and then open the blades, adjust idle etc etc Then in the software there will be various settings relating to either a "closed" throttle or throttle at rest/idle position type things ( so technically not closed in reality if you're using the blades to allow air in for idle )
ie closed for the purpose of activating idle control, overrun fuel cut, that type of thing. But all that's really doing is saying the throttle is lower than what you tell it as "closed", but the blade may not actually be closed if you get me.

Or I've set my "closed" to 5% and fully open to 95%
If I see the values either side of this I can deem there to be a fault that needs investigating.

My current "closed" idle position is around 7.0%, so it is slightly open.

What you want the ecu to do with respect to a closed/open throttle may change though and there are various settings in the ecu relating to that
But you could baseline these all against 0 %, and every time you adjust the blades at idle, re-set the linearisaton to say the new closed is in fact 0%

Up to you really how you go about it, but no AFAIK there is no option to re-set to zero every time you key on. From a diagnostics point of view I'd see that as a bad thing to do anyway for a manual blade.

[Mattb]

Still can't quite figure out the rich running. I'm still getting a wide band voltage of 0.75 volts. The engine effectively only has an air temp sensor, a coolant sensor, throttle position and the wideband. All of the temp sensors seem to have decent values.

The engine is lumpy from cold, and I have to hold it at around 1200rpm. Once warm it idles perfect but I still have a rich reading on the wideband of 0.75. When driving at about 3500rpm I get about 0.95 volts, so still fairly rich.

I'm confident the map is good as it has come from an identical engine set up.

Anything else I should be reviewing.

[stevieturbo]

Still can't quite figure out the rich running. I'm still getting a wide band voltage of 0.75 volts. The engine effectively only has an air temp sensor, a coolant sensor, throttle position and the wideband. All of the temp sensors seem to have decent values.

The engine is lumpy from cold, and I have to hold it at around 1200rpm. Once warm it idles perfect but I still have a rich reading on the wideband of 0.75. When driving at about 3500rpm I get about 0.95 volts, so still fairly rich.

I'm confident the map is good as it has come from an identical engine set up.

Anything else I should be reviewing.

You keep referring to 0.75v.

Are you using a narrowband sensor ( which to a large degree is useless ), or is there a wideband fitted ? Saying these readings as a voltage implies a narrowband.
Or do you mean 0.75 Lambda ?


And just because the map worked on another car, doesnt mean it is perfect for yours, there could be many small differences with each install that just make it wrong.

You need to get the car to someone who can tune it for you.

[Mattb]

Hi Steve,
Yes it's a wideband ntk sensor. When I looked at the gauge I was under the impression it was displaying volts. Between 0 and 5 which correlate to afr.

AFR = (voltage x 2) +10

Am I mis-interpreting this.

Definitely taking it to be mapped as soon as poss but just want to ensure there's no real install probs which will result in a wasted journey.