Hi, I hope someone can give me some help please.
I am running a S6PNP on a 2005 STi. I have connected the white and black cal swith wires to the test connectors, configured Cal Switch to AN15 and set Sensors / Calibration Switch / Input Pullup = ON
I see no changes in CalSW position or voltage when clicking through the positions.
Have I missed something or got something wrong?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Richard
Cal Switch Issues
Re: Cal Switch Issues
Hi Richard
This is a Pat Question as he does all suburu stuff
Pop him a mail at Pat@syvecs.co.uk
Ryan
This is a Pat Question as he does all suburu stuff
Pop him a mail at Pat@syvecs.co.uk
Ryan
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Re: Cal Switch Issues
Richard,
If you are not seeing any changes in an15v when you change positions then the wiring may be incorrect. It should be as follows: Black wire should be fitted with a female connector. White wire should be fitted with a male connector. Red wire (if present) should not be connected. If it is the later type of Cal switch it will not work if black and white are reversed. What voltage do you see ? Presumably it's either 5V or 0V, guessing 5V ?
Cheers,
Pat.
If you are not seeing any changes in an15v when you change positions then the wiring may be incorrect. It should be as follows: Black wire should be fitted with a female connector. White wire should be fitted with a male connector. Red wire (if present) should not be connected. If it is the later type of Cal switch it will not work if black and white are reversed. What voltage do you see ? Presumably it's either 5V or 0V, guessing 5V ?
Cheers,
Pat.
Re: Cal Switch Issues
Hi Pat,
After disconnecting the battery for a 90 minutes or so while I was checking the plugs, it now all of a sudden is seeing the cal switch and changing positions without problem. I was previously seeing 0V. Only issue I have now is I only get SYNC->0 when cranking and obviously therefore the car won't start. Not changed anything related to the crank signal or engine configuration in the map, so a bit confused.
Thanks
Richard
After disconnecting the battery for a 90 minutes or so while I was checking the plugs, it now all of a sudden is seeing the cal switch and changing positions without problem. I was previously seeing 0V. Only issue I have now is I only get SYNC->0 when cranking and obviously therefore the car won't start. Not changed anything related to the crank signal or engine configuration in the map, so a bit confused.
Thanks
Richard
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Re: Cal Switch Issues
Glad to hear the cal switch is now working, not sure why it should stop syncing just because you checked / changed plugs...
Best bet is the synclog. Power up the ignition and start cranking immediately. Turn it over for 6 turns, then using the laptop do Device -> View SyncLog. You will then see the cranking waveforms, which you can save (click on save) and email over to me. I should be able to figure out why it's not syncing from those....
Cheers,
Pat.
Best bet is the synclog. Power up the ignition and start cranking immediately. Turn it over for 6 turns, then using the laptop do Device -> View SyncLog. You will then see the cranking waveforms, which you can save (click on save) and email over to me. I should be able to figure out why it's not syncing from those....
Cheers,
Pat.
Re: Cal Switch Issues
All sorted thanks to Pat.
For the benefit of others, the solution to the SYNC ->0 issue was:
Sensors -> Crankshaft Position -> Crankshaft Position Sensor A -> High Trigger Threshold in Cranking
dropped from 1V to 0.75V
Cheers
Richard

For the benefit of others, the solution to the SYNC ->0 issue was:
Sensors -> Crankshaft Position -> Crankshaft Position Sensor A -> High Trigger Threshold in Cranking
dropped from 1V to 0.75V
Cheers
Richard
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Re: Cal Switch Issues
Just for the sake of completeness...
The reason for this change was that the output from the crankshaft sensor wasn't reaching 1V on the upper part of the waveform for every tooth during cranking, thereby not allowing the edge / level crossing detector to see that particular tooth. Low sensor output is normally a symptom of a poorly battery, not able to spin the engine quick enough to generate sufficient output. This fix should really only be used to get you running; a healthy battery should be able to spin the engine fast enough to get to 1V easily.
Cheers,
Pat.
The reason for this change was that the output from the crankshaft sensor wasn't reaching 1V on the upper part of the waveform for every tooth during cranking, thereby not allowing the edge / level crossing detector to see that particular tooth. Low sensor output is normally a symptom of a poorly battery, not able to spin the engine quick enough to generate sufficient output. This fix should really only be used to get you running; a healthy battery should be able to spin the engine fast enough to get to 1V easily.
Cheers,
Pat.
Re: Cal Switch Issues
Also bear in mind that the Cal switch may only be set for a maximum of 1 position. But of course the Cal Switch voltage will still change. Also if you're being very quick with your changing of cal switch position, you may go up and down before the stabilisation time allows the Syvecs to register a change in the cal switch position.
Re: Cal Switch Issues
Hi Pat,pat wrote:Just for the sake of completeness...
The reason for this change was that the output from the crankshaft sensor wasn't reaching 1V on the upper part of the waveform for every tooth during cranking, thereby not allowing the edge / level crossing detector to see that particular tooth. Low sensor output is normally a symptom of a poorly battery, not able to spin the engine quick enough to generate sufficient output. This fix should really only be used to get you running; a healthy battery should be able to spin the engine fast enough to get to 1V easily.
Cheers,
Pat.
The battery is a 3 month old Optima, so should be well up the job. Even with a fully charged battery jump start pack attached it was not able to get it to SYNC until I dropped the threshold.
Could it perhaps be my alternator that is on the way out?
Thanks
Richard
Hi Paul,Also bear in mind that the Cal switch may only be set for a maximum of 1 position. But of course the Cal Switch voltage will still change. Also if you're being very quick with your changing of cal switch position, you may go up and down before the stabilisation time allows the Syvecs to register a change in the cal switch position.
The map is configured to use all 8 cal positions and now switches through these without issue.
Thanks
Richard
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Re: Cal Switch Issues
Richard,
Do you find that the engine spins over at a "normal" speed when cranking ? It should be around about 230 RPM whilst cranking. If this is the case then it sounds like your sensor is perhaps spaced a little bit too far away from the trigger wheel. If it isn't then there could potentially be a charging problem, however you should be able to download a datalog and look at the vbat trace to see what your running voltage is. A three month old Optima should definitely be able to turn the engine over fast enough, assuming we are talking about the same spiral wound gel batteries
It could, of course, also be a poorly starter motor if you're not getting the cranking revs....
Cheers,
Pat.
Do you find that the engine spins over at a "normal" speed when cranking ? It should be around about 230 RPM whilst cranking. If this is the case then it sounds like your sensor is perhaps spaced a little bit too far away from the trigger wheel. If it isn't then there could potentially be a charging problem, however you should be able to download a datalog and look at the vbat trace to see what your running voltage is. A three month old Optima should definitely be able to turn the engine over fast enough, assuming we are talking about the same spiral wound gel batteries

Cheers,
Pat.