S6 GP wiring to beginner ?

[vayne]

Engine was running today

but unfortunately the engine did not worked as planned so lot of work is still to do again.. Gas fillet O-ring failure

[vayne]

Back again, some engine problems still but I am trying now to make syvecs work.

Here is attached sync log and cal file so what is wrong still ? No sequential after 3000 rpm.

My calculation:
-missing tooth is at 117 BTDC. The tooth that ends the gap would be 123
degrees and the tooth after the one that ends the gap is 117 degrees BTDC, so the reference angle would be 360-117
degrees = 243 degrees ?
-Cam angle is now 85 BUT is it 1/4 sylinder 90-2x3 => about 84-85 OR missing tooth 177-(90+6) => about 21 OR crank trigger 117

-Mikko-

[pat]

Mikko,

Your pattern has two missing teeth, so I'm not sure what your 117 BTDC is referring to, the first, second or middle of the gap ?

For the moment I'll assume that you're referring to the second missing tooth. The tooth that ends the gap would then be
6 degrees later, at 111 degrees BTDC. The tooth after that would then be another 6 degrees later at 105 degrees
BTDC. To get that back into an ATDC angle 360-105 = 255 degrees.

The cam signal seems poor. The edges are not sharp at all. You may need to turn off the input filter. You may also like
to try setting the sensor type to Thermistor; this will turn on the internal pull up resistor and improve the upward edge
a little. But first let's try to find out what's happening....

When you get to 3000 RPM you say it won't run sequential ? Are you getting a Critical Cam Error at that point with the
ECU dropping out of sync and then re-synchronising ? You should be able to go to Device -> View SyncLog and then
click on the Error button (or type E). This will bring up a trace of what was going on just before falling out of sync,
which should help you identify what is wrong with the signal. My suspicion is that the cam signal is not getting a
full swing. On an AU input the voltage thresholds are 1.25V and 3.75V, if the signal doesn't cross these any more
then you'll lose the cam pulse and because you have Engine Configuration -> Ignore Cam in 720 set to No, this would
cause a Critical Cam Fault. If you just want to tune it for now then set Ignore Cam in 720 to Yes and try to fix
the signal later. It would be unwise to leave that option on permanently but just to prove a point it may
be useful; if you can rev past 3000 with it set to Yes then you can be pretty sure it's a cam signal fault. If
you cannot then it's most likely a problem with the crank signal, but again the Sync ErrorLog should help
identify this.

If, however, you mean that it won't go into 720 sync at all then it may be that signal is too poor at that
point to trigger off. It may be wise to drop that right down to 1 RPM, this should get it into 720 sync
but then you may get a critical cam fault at higher RPM. Finally, if you are finding that the ECU goes
into 720 but the engine just stalls when it does then you may have the wrong phase. When the
ignition system goes from wasted spark to sequential it does matter whether the spark is at TDC
compression or TDC exhaust... try setting the Cam Angle to 445 degrees instead.

Hope this helps,

Pat.

[vayne]

Hi!

My 117 degrees is after the second missing tooth when the first real tooth starts so would the tooth after that be 123 or 111 degrees ? (so confusing to me, sorry )

So 360-111 or 360-123

-Mikko-

[pat]

Mikko,

If the tooth that ends the gap is at 117 BTDC then the tooth after that will be at 117-6 = 111 degrees BEFORE Top Dead Centre. BTDC values decrease with time. ATDC values increase with time. So the correct reference angle would be 360-111 = 249 degrees ATDC.

The SyncLog shows a better cam signal now. Still not very fast but at least fairly straight edges. You should be able to work with that

Cheers,

Pat.

[vayne]

Now it works, Cam Raw data told me correct angles so it is now fully sequential.

[vayne]

Launch Control:

I have left from my past ecu (DTA) a launch control switch. That is installed on gearstick and launch control goes ON when you keep pushin the button and goes OFF after you release it.

Can I connect it to S6 with same kind of launch control function (control stay ON so far as you keep the button down) ?

And where to ecu pins I connect it ?

-Mikko-

[pat]

Hiya Mikko!

The S6 does indeed have a launch control strategy that you can activate with your switch. You'll want one of the wires connected to ground, the other should go to a spare input on the ECU, I would recommend that you use a spare AR or AU input, that way there will be a pull-up resistor in the ECU so you don't need an external one. Once you have connected the switch to an appropriate input you'll need to configure the I/O to tell the ECU to "listen" to that pin to turn on the launch. In the Launch Control section you'll need to set the Pull Up to ENABLED and the Polarity to Active LOW. You'll also need to set the strategy enable to be enabled by the Launch switch. It's then just a case of configuring the retard and fuel cut as f(rpm) above the engine base launch speed.

Hope this helps,

Pat.

[vayne]

Thanks again !

[Ryan.g]

Nice


And for the future false connections, is there any pin removal tool ? I try to ask here for many shops and nowhere were so small tool ? Basic bosch tool is too big.

-Mikko-

I keep getting asked this in email so thought best to put on here also

S6GP removal tool is here

http://shop.t-g-s.de/product_info.php?p ... 1379069824