2003 Ford Focus RS - sensors question ?

[Jackstrath]

Ok, So ECU is in and talking to the sensors, got the old S6 file updated to the S7 version pretty easy, few pins changed location but actually suprised at how much stayed in the same location.

Got the BEEK racing firmware installed on the file, both Romain and Ryan helped with a few things there so thanks to them!

Set about setting all the DSG paddles and mode selects, and the new added wheel speed sensors. Everything so far seems to be working!

One thing im having issue with is my plex-300 dash. It no longer displays output from the ECU.

Initually it seemed the Datastream/Generic CAN Transmit/Transmit Content didnt copy across. So i coppied the previous setting from the S6GP configuration, still nothing, i then checked the Transmit Indentifier and Transmit Frequency sections, again nothing.

Only thing worth noting is the dash has moved to CAN2, as CAN1 is used for the DSG TCU. Another thing worth noting is where before i had "20 channels" on the CAN section iv now got 40?

There is alot more going on in the Datasteam section now im getting a little lost. Anyone thing of anything to try or where to look?

Cheers

[stevieturbo]

You'd need to change your CAN 2 transmit info to what your old CAN 1 transmit was in generic can transmit

I assume you've nothing else connected on CAN 2 ? You're definitely wired into CAN 2 ok ?

Not sure if you then also need a termination resistor somewhere. What resistance do you measure at the CAN wires ? I think it's supposed to be 60ohms


Be interesting to see how you get on with the DSG, as I'd like to do this in a future project myself

[Jackstrath]

Yeh it all looks ok, only thing I don’t know is about these extra channels? Like the s6 had 20 channels and the s7 has 40.

I thought that maybe can1 was 1-20 and can2 was 21-40 but did some changes there and got an error so had to change it back.

I havnt checked cable resistance, it’s the same cable that was used wit the s6 just with now s7 pins but il double check and make sure it’s nothing stupid like pin in the wrong place.
Yeh dsg control is solely on can1 and the dash solely on can2

Other than CANBUS only needing 2 wires for multiple modules I really know very little about it!

Yeh me to mate! End is near now, just custom shafts to make and it should be ready for reassembly and start testing!

[Jackstrath]

Sorted had the low / hi the wrong way round… even wrote it on my excel sheet wrong and never picked up on it!

[Jackstrath]

So got the gearbox filled up with fluids and the engine with oil.

Hit the starter button and it cranks, fuel pump starts but does not fire, doesnt even remoitly offer to go?

Any Ideas? iv attached my Cam/Crank Sync log as it doesnt look right? Its a very weak signal but if i rememeber right it always has been?

Tried pushing the brake incase the DSG softwear needs to see brake pressure before allowing to start but im getting nothing!

[stevieturbo]

The signals are clear and defined, but not being recognised. Whether that's just voltage thresholds or completely wrong setup I do not know without seeing the setup

Also I would say your cam trigger is wired reverse polarity, although it may be ok on rising edge. But I would always prefer the trace the other way around and falling edge.

I've never used a VR trigger on rising edge, so cannot comment how viable that is.

But with no green lines appearing in the syncscope, it's not happy.


How did previous syncscope traces look before ? always keep some handy for reference

[Jackstrath]

I checked the old set up and as far as voltage thresholds go and rising or falling settings that are as per the old file.

As for wiring I checked that first and it’s again as per old set up.

The real change here is the crank, Iv moved to a trigger wheel on a pulley on the crank vs the original which used the flywheel for its pick up. I think it might be a sync issue?

Hmm maybe passing my level of knowledge here now might be time to get someone with a teamsveiwer set up and a timing light to see what’s going on!

[stevieturbo]

as already said, it is not recognising your current setup.

I've no idea what you had before, but it is not right for what you have now. Clearly something is different

[stevieturbo]

Make life easy for anyone trying to decypher what you need through all the vagueness.

Stick a pressure sensor in cylinder 1, and log raw crank, cam and the pressure sensor at 1000Hz during cranking, and it will make it easy to sort the crank/cam setup.

ie. you can easily see crank cam and where all teeth are in relation to cyl 1 TDC

goc crank cam overlay 720 chart.png (82.4 KiB) Viewed 22763 times

[Jackstrath]

So just a little update.

Got the car timed up and started fine all is well. I have to make a new boost pipe and still waiting on driveshafts so a bit away yet before it can move.
One thing i have noticed tho is the car turns over slightly slower than it did before. This wasn't a issue with the old set up, and if i have my large battery connected up the starter spins just that little bit faster and the car starts no issue. But as soon as i go to the onboard race battery it almost doesn't have enough juice to start the car.... any idea what i can do to sort that?