Syvecs Forums

Ok , bit of a update here , again with a few more questions! , thanks in advance stevie!

bought knock sensor and wide band from JTI

so finished off my COP set up , chuffed with that ,

Untitled by Jack Strathdee, on Flickr

Also finished my wireing loom for the aux sensors - Knock , water and oil temps , oil and fuel pressure



My mapper and the person that was going to install the ECU has had a slight side shift with the company he works for , basically a name change , but its a building change ect as well, going to prob be a month before they will be able to see the car , i could prob make that work but after the wireing loom im on a bit of a high with it all!

So iv decided i might give wiring up the ECU my self , but this might be out my depth ! will see i guess!

I have a few questions , below is a ECU pin out of the ford ECU

focus ecu2 by Jack Strathdee, on Flickr

I have a few questions , as im not 100% sure on how it all works with a few things , and what looks alien to me might well make scene to someone else

First thing i think is simple but thought id ask any way , the alternator on the focus is a smart charge item , im assuming the controls are pin 59/72 , removing this should just turn the alternator into a normal non smart charge yeh ?

second is the started relay (K4 pin 27) , so i just run this to an after market switch or the trigger from the ignition barrel ?

next , is syvecs pin 6 which is classed as Trigger ground - crank and cam sensor grounds , i take it i can share the grounds for both cam and crank sensor ? (pins 76 and 22 on the ford ECU)

and this one is the one that i could be over thinking , Fuel pump , pin 54 on ford ECU , is that what turns the fuel pump on ? i cant make up my mind if its a switched earth or not ?


below is the pin outs for the syvecs with me cross ref the ford ecu pins at the left side numbers

s6 pins1 edit by Jack Strathdee, on Flickr

s6 pins2 edit by Jack Strathdee, on Flickr


im not 100% sure if i have the pins right for the throttle pos sensor ( B147) and the MAP sensor (B105) are they sharing pin 90 as a ground? and using 89 and 63 retrospectively for there out puts?


and last of all knock sensors , green circle is where ford fit there knock sensors to USA cars , we in the uk sadly dint get this , so that hole and thread is just a blank , il prob have to drill and tap it out , but i thought id ask if the dowel circled red could be used for the knock sensor? as its drilled and tapped already , or would that lead to phantom knock ?

Untitled by Jack Strathdee, on Flickr


so im probably sounding like an idiot (spelling and grammar aside) , but im keen to give anything a bash as long as i know im not going to cause damage!

Alternator...dont know. Never really looked into what the smart charge stuff is about. There is an alternator control function on the Syvecs but I've never used it.

Starter relay...it does look like that is the case. Seems an odd way for them to do it though. Should be easy to test what happens if you apply an earth to that wire though. Starter should engage ( or this could be an odd one that may require a 12v to trigger it ) Easy test either way.

Yes crank/cam could share the same ground wire as described.

Fuel pump does look like a switched earth. ECU's normally switch earths for just about everything anyway. ( not absolutely everything...but the vast majority )

B147 signal looks like Ford pin 69 or 89 ?, it's hard to see. But yes most engine sensors will share the same sensor ground ( even if there may be more than 1 pin at the ecu, they're all connected internally )
Likewise the 5v supply to all sensors ( maybe Ford yellow/pin 90 ? )

Ultimately the ecu settings will need adjusted for your engine and any noises it makes. The central location would be better..but I wouldnt be overly worried about it. The other hole will be fine.

For setting out your wiring, the spreadsheets with pinouts are handy, add whatever info and comments etc you want to keep for the future.


http://www.syvecs.com/downloads/Pinouts ... inouts.xls

Alternator , smart charge just uses takes reading from various sensors and decides when its best to charge the battery and when extra power is needed more ect , im sure with the plug un-plugged , it reverts back to a normal alternator so i guess same will happen here.

yeh starter i think should be easy to test.

as for the crank and cam , most of fords earths are a green with a chaser colour , its typical that the crank and cam sensors arnt that , is there a wrong way to wire them ? are they polarity sensitive?

B147 is 89


Ah thanks for the link to that ! exactly what i was needing ! much appreciated !

Jackstrath wrote:Alternator , smart charge just uses takes reading from various sensors and decides when its best to charge the battery and when extra power is needed more ect , im sure with the plug un-plugged , it reverts back to a normal alternator so i guess same will happen here.

yeh starter i think should be easy to test.

as for the crank and cam , most of fords earths are a green with a chaser colour , its typical that the crank and cam sensors arnt that , is there a wrong way to wire them ? are they polarity sensitive?

B147 is 89


Ah thanks for the link to that ! exactly what i was needing ! much appreciated !

I know the idea behind the smart charge...I just dont know what the ecu is doing to the alternator to control it. Ultimately it is that signal that matters here.

yes they are polarity sensitive, a scope trace would tell you if you have them correct though.

Copying a pic from the MS pages...correctly wired VR sensor trace should look like this. All teeth should bare some resemblance to the profile at the missing tooth shown in the middle..but it will be more pronounced with the missing tooth area. If polarity is wrong the trace will be reversed.
In general VR will trigger off the falling edge of the signal, which as you can see is stable ( goes from high to low ) where it passes through the zero line at all times.
Whereas if it was wrong...the trace would have the odd shape on the "falling" side which would make the patter un-usable. Although you could maybe select rising edge, not 100% sure on that.

But stick with falling and polarity correct.

ok well , iv done a bit more googling and got given the complete wireing diagram for the focus , so was able to use it and find out what is earth and what is feed for the crank and cam signals

just the crank and fuel pump is the only grey areas now, happy days ! im home from offshore next week and will finaly cut the ECU plug ! exciting times!

I have a vague recollection that the Ford alternators are controlled by a LINbus connection, which isn't (or, at least, wasn't a year ago) supported on the Syvecs.

I also vaguely recall that the alternator defaults to generating 16V if not controlled right (or sorted, somehow)...but that's from conversations I was only copied in on with a Syvecs dealer who does loads of Focus RS installs (in case it was an issue with the loom adapters I'd made for them).

Tim was that for a mk1 focus ? I didn't think you got loom adaptors for them ? Do you still do them ?

Iv had a bit of a carry on with alternators in the past with the Revs of the engine being higher and that was spinning the alternator to fast, fitted a bigger pully and everything been fine for a few years now, will ask about , thanks for your input

No, would have been Mk2 I think, sorry!

no worries ! i was sure i read 14.7 volts the alternator defaults to and when you mentioned fancy LINbus that sounded a bit technical for my dinosaur

Side note , i dont suppose you do the toggle switch for the CAL maps like the one syvecs show on there site ? (the silver bushed alloy looking one?) , iv bought my Wideband and knock sensor from yourself , so thanks for the speedy delivery

We usually supply our CAL switches with a black plastic knob with a numbered pointer, but I do keep the silver knob for those who prefer it. Only issue is that I don't have the Syvecs-branded numbered sticker that they supply.