S6 GP wiring to beginner ?

[vayne]

Now I have only coils and camshaft hall-sensors to be connect so couple question from them:

Coils are IGN-1A and here is pinout:

A - Ignition signal from ECU
B - Logic ground, connect to ECU ground
C - Spark wire ground, connect to cylinder head
D - Power ground, connect to battery negative
E - 12 volt power

And some Info:
These coils are designed to put out 103 mJ per spark, with a longer spark duration (2.9 ms) than what you'd see with a capacitive discharge. They can be driven with a 5 volt logic level output - we recommend a 270 to 330 ohm pullup if you're building a MegaSquirt to drive them, and they can fully charge with as low as 2.5 ms of dwell.

The coil charges when a 5 volt signal is applied to pin A, and fires when the voltage drops to zero. The signal is similar to an LSx coil, although it does need a bit more current than what is needed to make an LSx coil charge.

Questions:
1. Pin A => +5vout or ign pins on S6 ?
2. Pin B => Inj or aux (or Ign pins if pin A is +5vout) on S6 ?
3. Is there some other things what should I know about these coils connections ?

And cam Hall-sensors question:

4. Is trigger active high or low ?

-Mikko-

[jalai]

And some Info:
These coils are designed to put out 103 mJ per spark, with a longer spark duration (2.9 ms) than what you'd see with a capacitive discharge. They can be driven with a 5 volt logic level output - we recommend a 270 to 330 ohm pullup if you're building a MegaSquirt to drive them, and they can fully charge with as low as 2.5 ms of dwell.

Questions:
1. Pin A => +5vout or ign pins on S6 ?
2. Pin B => Inj or aux (or Ign pins if pin A is +5vout) on S6 ?
3. Is there some other things what should I know about these coils connections ?
-Mikko-

Pin A => IGN-pins on S6 (ign outputs configured to 5V)
Pin B => ECU ground

This 2,5ms dwell is not really "full charge". It is wery low charge, something under 4A primary current.
Useful Dwell ~4 to 6ms (5ms is very normal).
Primary charge current/Dwell time (RED curve) on the next picture...
http://picasaweb.google.com/jaritlaine/ ... 8387374802

Attachment picture with little different text for coil pins.

[vayne]

Thanks !

And that ecu ground is ANGND or PWRGND ?

And

Cam Hall-sensors:
4. Is trigger active high or low ?


-Mikko-

[ScoobyDuck]

as its got a pull up, its low, which the wave form shows

[vayne]

Okey, now is wiring done.

I can`t test Cam hall yet because it`s stand is not ready. Everything else is now done with car so now I have to start study the software which looks like a quite big task for me again

I made IO configuration and it does not like my Cal-Switch pinout ? It`s wired AR1 pin 63 ?

-Mikko-

[vayne]

Need some help with Cal. It is sync and connected but....

What is wrong on my Cal ? especially crank/cam settings and Manual Cam Checklist ?

Some info:
- Crank missing tooth = 117 BTDC
- Cam sync tooth approximately 75-85 BTDC -> tooth leading edge -> signal goes low.
- Firing 1-3-4-2 (yes that how it is)

-Mikko-

[pat]

And that ecu ground is ANGND or PWRGND ?

You need PWRGND since it's a power device and not a sensor

4. Is trigger active high or low ?

The S6 can trigger off rising or falling edge, just configure the sensor accordingly. The S6 has software configurable input pullups on inputs capable of measuring speed type signals; it depends on the sensor as to whether you need to turn it on or not. Easy enough to test; trace the AN input that the sensor is on (eg AN05V is it's on AU1), if you see the voltage swinging with the pullup turned off then you don't need it (it may still help though). If you don't see a waveform then try turning the pullup on.... this is done by setting the input type to "Thermistor".

I made IO configuration and it does not like my Cal-Switch pinout ? It`s wired AR1 pin 63 ?

The AR inputs have permanently enabled pullups. You need to enable the pullup in the Sensor configuration for the Calibration switch, otherwise it will rightly say that you don't want a pullup but that is impossible, and therefore it will not boot.

Hope this helps,

Pat.

[vayne]

Yes thanks. My english makes me sometimes to ask so stupid questions

How about this Cal issue above (file is attached above post) ?

What is wrong with that file ?

[pat]

The calibration is set to Generic Keyed By Single Cam, if there are no unique features on the crank then this is correct (eg Toyota 2JZ which has 12 teeth with 30 degree gaps and NO missing teeth), but from the rest of the config you seem to have a 60-2 type setup so that should be Generic - Single Gap Single Cam.

You won't need the Manual Cam Checklist if there is just one cam pulse every 720 degrees, all you need to tell the ECU is when it occurs. You would need the Manual Cam Checklist if the cam pattern was a bit more complicated (eg Subaru G10 cam pattern with 36-1 crank pattern).

Would suggest setting minimum engine speed for 720 sync to (say) 3000 (in the Starting section), then fire the engine. It should start and run in batch fire / wasted spark. The as you rev it the phase should be detected and the ECU should go fully sequential. If it then stalls, the phase is out by one revolution, so just add 360 to the cam angle in the Generic Single Gap Single Cam setup section.

The reference tooth is the tooth after the tooth that ends the gap. You say the the "missing tooth" is at 117 BTDC but I think there are 2 missing teeth. Assuming that 117 is the second missing tooth then the tooth that ends the gap would be at 111 degrees and the tooth after the one that ends the gap would be at 105 degrees BTDC, so the reference angle would be 360-105 = 255 degrees, the reference angle is ATDC not BTDC if memory serves.

You may also want to increase the Gap Ratio in the Generic Single Gap Single Cam Setup section; if there are 2 missing teeth then it would be normal to see a gap more than 1.5 times the normal gap, somewhere around 2.25 might be a good starting point.

Hope this helps,

Pat.

[vayne]

Thanks again !

I will try to make changes as you said.

-Mikko-