Syvecs map sensor identification

[supra-love]

If you know whether it's a 3, 4, 5 bar or whatever, that's mostly all you need to know.

Or just buy one that suits the boost ranges you need to operate with and just adjust the sensor calibration to suit when fitted.

Ryan seems to think it’s a old Syvecs 4bar one!

I assume I still need to calibrate if I exchange for the newer 4bar Syvecs one?

[stevieturbo]

It would be wise to check and confirm any new sensor is calibrated correctly.

[supra-love]

It would be wise to check and confirm any new sensor is calibrated correctly.

Perfect thanks mate. I’ll wait till calibration is checked prior to trying to start it

[TimH]

If you buy a reputable replacement sensor it should come with a calibration sheet. A KA sensor for example is nominally 0.5V=0bar and 4.5V=full range but it will have a spec sheet with it stating the 0 bar voltage "offset" (typically within a few mV of 0.5V, e.g. 0.498V) and "span" (e.g. 4.005V; so span+offset = full range. Between the two points they are linear. They are consistent enough not to need any further testing/checking/calibration other than using that information unless you are ringing the neck of the engine and running it right to the limits! In most cases just using 0.5V and 4.5V is good enough, in my opinion.

Those old Syvecs MAP sensors had a very weird calibration curve, from memory, and may have varied quite a lot sensor by sensor.

[supra-love]

If you buy a reputable replacement sensor it should come with a calibration sheet. A KA sensor for example is nominally 0.5V=0bar and 4.5V=full range but it will have a spec sheet with it stating the 0 bar voltage "offset" (typically within a few mV of 0.5V, e.g. 0.498V) and "span" (e.g. 4.005V; so span+offset = full range. Between the two points they are linear. They are consistent enough not to need any further testing/checking/calibration other than using that information unless you are ringing the neck of the engine and running it right to the limits! In most cases just using 0.5V and 4.5V is good enough, in my opinion.

Those old Syvecs MAP sensors had a very weird calibration curve, from memory, and may have varied quite a lot sensor by sensor.

Thanks for that tim, yes it’s been confirmed this is a very old Syvecs map 4bar sensor! Probably why it’s playing up!

I have gone ahead and bought the new 4bar Syvecs map sensor from racecal. It does have a sheet with it!

If you think I shouldn’t need calibration between the old version and the up to date version I’ll go ahead and fit and run!

Otherwise I’ll need someone to calibrate it remotely.

I’ve added a pic of the new version! You can see how different they are compared to my first post picture

[stevieturbo]

It's a critical sensor, I would not make any assumptions. But it'd only take a few minutes to sort it

[TimH]

I doubt the calibration is the same, but the relavant data is printed on it. If you don't know how to interpret it wait until a mapper can check and tweak the Cal.

[supra-love]

Fitted today and having it calibrated this evening so all good, hopefully she will start again! The plugs were slightly wet and very black so gave them a clean, probably due to the map sensor failing

[RICE RACING]

Depends how excited you want to get (like everything in life) but is nice to do your own calibrations of all sensors.
Here is how I do mine and for others if you want perfection

MAP sensors you need to know your exact ambient pressure at the time you calibrate then (easy enough to get) and validate if you have an appropriate reference sensor and do some maths as pictured, or you can guess it as well using tools in your phone if you have nothing else on hand

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[RICE RACING]

I use a live bap reading sensor input as its is amazing how much it can change in the course of running a test, it is all down to how anal you are, some love anal more than others

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