2003 Ford Focus RS - sensors question ?

[stevieturbo]

If it needs 10v....then just hook up the old 5v line to those sensors to 12v ?

Really....the GT101 types ( although the originals are discontinued, there seem to be a lot of replacements now ) work fine for me. I've always run mine off 5v


That said.....your wheel speeds already look fine. So exactly what is supposed to be the problem with them ?

[Jackstrath]

It would be as simple as that would it? Just thinking the scale in the syvecs is only scaled for 5v if 5v/5vbipolar is selected?
Ground going into the sensor ground wont cause issues?

Its more for reliability now, i always had the fear the bearing flex in the hub might cause me issues down the line once i get on track, this set up on the CV removes that issue all together.

[stevieturbo]

Yes, it will be as simple as that

Depending on inner CV type, some of them do move about a lot though which may cause issues. Although the big chunky teeth should help alleviate that risk

[Jackstrath]

So rather than leave you in the dark steve, thought id show you what iv been up to.

Got some sendor rings made, 20 teeth so ties in with the beek soft wear recommendations. Got some little brackets to hold the new 10v sensors.
Wired them up and fitted it all up. Few changes to the thresholds and set to 5v rather than 5vbipolar and i took it for a spin and opened it up and all seems well. No issues, got that torque limit trip again. Was something to do with me controlling the idle while on the brakes. Doesnt like that for some reason.
Set the speed using my GPS so the speed is with in 1mph at pretty much all times, but still getting the fault codes in the box. Will send another email to beek see what they say!

TCU needs a tune, im not a massive fan of the soft changes if your partial throttle, i know its not a sequential but id like it to act more like one and tuning the TCU will allow that. Also auto shifts up at 6800rpm, again TCU tune will fix that.

Iv booked a few hours dyno time in october to hopefully get the car running back to what it was, idling correct ect and then its just a money saving game to buy a new box and get a diff and race clutchs installed! But for now im delighted, concepts worked! Thanks for all your help and time steve! Would still be struggling to get it going with out your help.

[stevieturbo]

So largely the change is just the trigger rings ? same sensor ?

Good to hear it's working overall. But will you even need clutches ? It seems even the DQ250 can take some good power all round ( with clutches where needed )

Ideally that's what I'd like to be using, as it seems the cheapest and most common box. Plus smaller than the 500. And that little drag car that run into the 7's I believe was on a DQ250, which is massively impressive.

If I'm reading right to, HTG now, or very soon will offer both fully re-wired control of the box, or CAN based much like you're using. Which might still allow the user a little more to play with than the hard coded Syvecs ?
How much or what can you adjust with the Syvecs coding ?

Or certainly at least to get initially running.

Wheel speeds will be one I need to deal with. X4 seems like an option....but almost a waste of an expander to get only 4 inputs and outputs ( although I think it's kinda 4+4 )

I see though lots of people seem to retrofit a Bosch MK60 ABS unit, which seems similar to the Bosch Motorsport, I wonder if the CAN stream on both are the same to get wheel speeds from that, as that might be an option, as the OE ABS on my other car is crap and this might not be horrendous to change.

Or I see many in the past who've fitted Racelogics TCS, they do wire the OE VR wheel inputs to the RL system, but with some DIY filtering added. I'm a good way off doing either at the minute though
But the filter might be a way of wiring direct the the ecu, and keeping the ABS itself happy. Although if the Bosch system could talk to the ecu via CAN, that sounds like a good upgrade all round.
Or the X4, although it mostly mentions MR, not VR sensors. I assume both would be ok.

racelogic wheel speed filtering.gif (58.84 KiB) Viewed 113749 times

racelogic RLTC filter.png (128.82 KiB) Viewed 113749 times

[Jackstrath]

So Just an update, iv done about 100 mile with the new wheel speed sensors and it seems to be happy enough!
Felt brave so booked it onto the dyno to get the idle sorted out, sounds simple but after alot of messing about it idles soooo nice!
It was a fine balance, the engine due to cams doesn't really like idling under 950rpm, but we got it down to that. Only issue was i couldn't tell if it was going into gear (i like that feeling of engagement) We bumped it up and both me and it are happy, its sitting at about 1300rpm which is enough for the clutches to disengage allowing me to sit with it in first with out it wanting to creep (when on the brake)

Played about with the gear cuts as they were still set from cutting with the H pattern box so trimming them down the shifts became quicker.
And then played with the fueling and added back in boost control (lost from going to the S6 to S7). First time the car has been back on the dyno with the 3.5" exhaust and it appears to have made a world of difference!

Little dyno clip of it
https://youtu.be/zymwcKfw0Fg

Again thanks for all your help steve!

[stevieturbo]

Sounds good.

I'm sure you could have a nice low neutral idle, and then add a bump up for when it is in gear ?

Or is there no gear position feedback ? I think someone did mention that about the DSG boxes ? or maybe it was yourself ?

Do you just calculate gear ?

[Jackstrath]

Ahhh I missed that bit out!

So yeh beek originally said I couldn’t get the gear display back from the TCU.

But going though the emails I had asked for info one of the things I got was what come back from the tcu and seen that there was one saying Gear something or another!

So a bit of playing about we got a voltage back which yes, now tells me what gear I’m in! Which is mega handy! Let’s me see neutral, reverse ect ect!

Not going to lie the support from beek hasn’t been amazing, hardly disappointing but just not what I expected when buying it tbh! I would of thought some sorta base manual would of been supplied!

[jerkdextrous]

Making progress, but encountering a few roadblocks.

Successfully got the car started, and the DSG is responsive, allowing selection of 1st, Neutral, and Reverse. However, there's a snag—I'm unable to get it to shift past first gear. It seems there might be some settings within the gear selection calibrations that need tweaking. I'm starting to feel a bit out of my depth here.

Another hurdle is the troubling idle situation. It's quite rough, and I suspect there might be adjustments needed in the idle control settings. A step-by-step guide on setting up idle control would be incredibly helpful at this point!

On a separate note, I'm curious if the S7 differs from the S6 when it comes to fan control. There's a slim chance that the relay might be malfunctioning, but they're so rare and replacing one is a £60 gamble. Before taking that leap, I'm wondering if there are distinctions in fan control between the S7 and S6 that might explain the issue. Currently, I have the Fan01 set to pins Fuel 05, but when attempting to activate the fan, it starts rapidly clicking, and the fan doesn't spin. Oddly enough, this configuration worked flawlessly with the S6. I even tested the fan with a direct 12v connection, and it functioned as expected.

Considering running all new fan cables and potentially doing away with the pricey fan relay. Any insights or advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated!

[stevieturbo]

Making progress, but encountering a few roadblocks.

Successfully got the car started, and the DSG is responsive, allowing selection of 1st, Neutral, and Reverse. However, there's a snag—I'm unable to get it to shift past first gear. It seems there might be some settings within the gear selection calibrations that need tweaking. I'm starting to feel a bit out of my depth here.

Another hurdle is the troubling idle situation. It's quite rough, and I suspect there might be adjustments needed in the idle control settings. A step-by-step guide on setting up idle control would be incredibly helpful at this point!

On a separate note, I'm curious if the S7 differs from the S6 when it comes to fan control. There's a slim chance that the relay might be malfunctioning, but they're so rare and replacing one is a £60 gamble. Before taking that leap, I'm wondering if there are distinctions in fan control between the S7 and S6 that might explain the issue. Currently, I have the Fan01 set to pins Fuel 05, but when attempting to activate the fan, it starts rapidly clicking, and the fan doesn't spin. Oddly enough, this configuration worked flawlessly with the S6. I even tested the fan with a direct 12v connection, and it functioned as expected.

Considering running all new fan cables and potentially doing away with the pricey fan relay. Any insights or advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated!

New user ?? real or copy n paste spambot ?......I'm guessing a f'ing spambot.