New Install and No Spark

[Mattb]

Last night I verified the wiring to the coil. When testing from the coil to the plug (coil side) which connects to the ignition module there is 13.2 volts when the circuit is completed to the ground pin on the ignition module plug.

For my own sanity correct me if I'm wrong, the above test results are correct. Typically the ecu would send 5v on a given ignition pin to the module, which would then effectively "close" the gate within the ignition module between coil and ground generating a spark.

I've got two brand new ignition modules so struggle to believe both can be defective.

I also did a pulse output test with nothing connected, and do see voltage at the multimeter, but that required increasing the pulse duration upto about 100 Ms. Presumably as the multimeter can't register a 3ms duration input.

The only other thing I need to try is to pull plug two, in case the coil has gone down on plug one, but was perfect previously.

Sent from my iPhone

[stevieturbo]

The ecu will output 5v and this will charge the coil.

It is when the 5v is removed, ie it goes to ground 0v that the coil should then fire.

I've never actually tested the output of an ign amp, so not sure whether it actually is an on/off switch, or whether it can output a voltage to start/stop charging an inductive coil.

Either way if you tested with a meter between 12v and the amp output, I'd expect to see some sort of change when you turn the relevant ecu output off/on.

And on a meter I'd assume that would reflect as either 12v displayed, or nothing displayed

I dont think the amp should heat up at this stage as there isnt really any current flowing if it's just attached to a multimeter.

Effectively the amp will invert what the ecu is telling. So ecu outputs high voltage to charge in this case 5v, amp outputs 0v to charge.
Ecu outputs 0v to fire coil, amp either breaks the circuit or outputs 12v, same end result, coil stops charging and fires.

Or I wonder would your amp be expecting a 12v trigger from the ecu instead of the 5v ? I think I seen mention of a jumper switch on the board to change the output to 12v

[Mattb]

the module I'm using isn't strictly an amplifier in this instance I think it's classed as an ignition module. Explanation of how it works is here.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec181.shtml

Edit:

They are infact classed as power output stages and they do use a 5v input. Here's a more detailed description and the output stage opened up.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/15284.phtml

[TimH]

IIRC, the testing functions in SCal allow you to set up a base state (i.e. 0V and 5V) and then pulse it a number of times.

If you are reading (near) +5V then I would think the base state is set to +5V which probably turns the amplifier full on and puts 12V across it's load (it won't get hot unless there is a load though).

You would not see the test pulse on a meter - you either need a 'scope, or to connect up a coilpack and a plug and look for a spark.

Not sure if the above helps lol.

[Mattb]

All info potentially helps

If I turn the pulse duration up to 300ms for example, with no amp connected etc, I can see the voltage change on the multimeter when the pulse is initiated. With the amp and coil connected I don't see a spark at the spark plug. Hence why I'm baffled as everything else is reading correctly.

[TimH]

What base state - 0V or 5V?

[Mattb]

Will check tonight Tim and post back.

[stevieturbo]

And presumably you have grounded the plug so it is able to spark ?

[Mattb]

Update.... After pulling the loom apart I discovered the ignition module had been wired back to front. Have sorted that and I can spark on demand with the output test

Next problem.. When I first run the car up I'll need to balance the throttle bodies as they've been off the head. To do that I'll need to remove the air box, but doing that means the air temp sensor is un plugged, which in turn generates a red error I can't clear until I plug the sensor back in. From what I understand red errors will prevent the car from running. There isn't enough length on the sensor plug to have the air box lid dangling some where else. Is there any work around in scal.

Second thing. I haven't currently got a cal switch fitted, to save me time can someone point me in the direction to instructions on how you change maps in scal.

[stevieturbo]

air temp will just default to whatever value you set a failed sensor to read, no biggie.

Likewise with no Cal switch configured, it should just be defaulted to Cal 01, so again not to worry.

just ensure it is tuning on Cal 01, and that any cal switch options and tables are being used for Cal 01

One of Ryan's help videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BoXPFxAzo4