Rewiring MR2 with Syvecs TBV/IACV Question

[shmed]

Sorry, my bad, I missed the link. Will take a look tomorrow thanks again for the help.

[stevieturbo]

but yes, if you've cranked it, the info will still be there.

Just open Scal, D, V, and save it.

It will show the crank/cam signals in much better resolution than generic logging.

Although whilst this will show what the signal is and levels etc, it still wont show you anything in relation to cyl1 TDC.

Best way overall is a 3 channel scope, crank, cam and a pressure sensor in cyl1, then you can get a good visual of how things need set up

[shmed]

As for the old lambda, what was the input wired to ?

Looking at the old config, the Lambda sensor was connected to AN11.

I have followed the Syvecs wiring guide for the new sensor (with the exception of the heater drive which is using FUEL08 rather than FUEL07) so Lambda input now uses LAM-V.

I've also connected the white wire to pin 57 as per the guide even though there seems to be no SCal specific setting to change this.

[shmed]

Here are the sync log outputs:




Looking at the second image, would I be right in thinking that the crank has a missing tooth?

Am I also correct in thinking that the green indicators are a good thing?

[stevieturbo]

Yes the crank has a missing tooth, that's good. Yes green lines are good, although it does not appear to be into 720sync

The way it's wired looks like crank will end up falling edge, but cam rising edge. Crank probably a 36-2 ?

As for any positions relative to TDC you'd need to sort that yourself, without a reference to cyl1 TDC on the trace, no way to tell.

As for the Lambda, Yes UEGO, as it's wired to dedicated inputs there isn't much other config needed. You will still need to set the linearisation for the sensor you have chosen.

Your previous setup was just wired to a generic input, whether it was a narrowband or something else.

[shmed]

Yes the crank has a missing tooth, that's good. Yes green lines are good, although it does not appear to be into 720sync

What are you looking at that tells you if it gets into 720 sync?

Is it likely to start without achieving 720 sync?

The way it's wired looks like crank will end up falling edge, but cam rising edge. Crank probably a 36-2 ?

The SCal config says it is Generic Single Gap Single CAM
CAM and Crank are both set as falling edge

Not sure where to find the number of teeth on the trigger wheel in SCal. I'm sure I saw it somewhere, but can't remember where.

As for any positions relative to TDC you'd need to sort that yourself, without a reference to cyl1 TDC on the trace, no way to tell.

The engine was running fine and mapped by Ryan the day before it went into storage. I haven't changed anything engine-wise since then (head hasn't been removed and belt hasn't been touched).

To that end, I'm pretty confident that the physical timing should be adequate.

As for the Lambda, Yes UEGO, as it's wired to dedicated inputs there isn't much other config needed. You will still need to set the linearisation for the sensor you have chosen.

I'm using the NTK L2H2. As this is recommended by Syvecs, I had hoped the built-in linearisation was adequate. If not, will I need to get this calibrated?

Thanks again for all your input, very keen to hear it run again after so long!!

[stevieturbo]

On the sync scope it keeps repeating 0-360.

Or on the main SCal screen when cranking, you'll see in the top right corner.

Depends how you have it configured, it can start in 360 or not. But it needs full 720 sync for everything to be correct.

Your cam waveform is clearly rising edge. Other option is flip the polarity of that wiring.
trigger config is in the engine config section.

36-2 is still a single gap, so single gap, single tooth is correct.

I thought you had changed the physical trigger install ? with the queries about the dizzy etc ?

You obviously select the linearisation for the sensor from the sensor database, same as you would do for any sensor ( that is in the database of course... )
You have changed the calibration from a different sensor, to a new different sensor. Of course it needs a correct calibration. Your old one appears to be a somewhat linear line.
Choose the correct calibration for the sensor you are now using.

[shmed]

So I decided to try the engine out and it won't start without me manually opening the throttle.

When it does start, it runs lumpy and won't stay running.

Here is the log from that:



And a close up of where it lost sync:



I tried changing the cam sensor to rising edge, and I also tried using the other wires from the old dizzy. As expected, the green and white wires give pretty much the same result. The black wire obviously goes to the 24 tooth trigger wheel as the sync log for that shoes much more activity on the cam.

Oddly, even when it was connected to the trigger wheel, it still made 360 sync, so I'm not sure if the cam sensor is set up right.

[stevieturbo]

save and upload the syncscope file, not enough detail in the images. But a loss of crank trigger can be many things, as simple as voltage thresholds, interference, or a bigger problem.

A suitable crank trigger will allow running in 360 only. It is the cam trigger that tells the ecu where cyl1 is, to allow 720sync.

Without the phase ID, there are 2 TDC's on a 4cyl engine, but no way to distinguish cyl1 and 4.

I would not go randomly changing trigger setups. Not so much a huge issue around idle....but wrong setup can be a major problem in the wrong conditions.

Running in 360 only will be essentially batch fire, wasted spark kinda thing as true sequential cannot work without knowing where cyl1 is.

[shmed]

Cheers, I'm going to take that advice and not change anything until I've checked other possible causes.

I've tried switching the the green and white wire from the cam sensor which just moves the can signal by 180 degrees, I've also tried connecting both the white and green wires together, but that means I get a signal on the cam sensor every 360 degrees, which I don't think is right either as the cams do two revs per crank rev.

I'm leaning towards your original idea of replacing the old dizzy and firing a dedicated cam pos sensor.

I have the sync log, but not sure how to upload it from my phone.