Hi I've a 2000 classic v6 Impreza with a s6pnp 0306 board and I've problem with knock sensor just can't get it to work, only readings I get are between 0-7.1 knock, I've even wired direct from the ks straight to the ecu incase of a wiring fault.even with the 2 sensor wires removed from the ecu I still get the same readings.ive had 2 differant mappers check it over and they both unsure what the problem is,,,,,,help
Cheers drew
S6 knock sensor prob
Re: S6 knock sensor prob
Have you checked the wiring?
Have you checked the ground, as a single wire sensor grounds via the engine block.
Are you using a 2 pin bosch sensor but connecting it to a single wire loom with the two pins reversed?
Why are you removing wires?
Have you checked the ground, as a single wire sensor grounds via the engine block.
Are you using a 2 pin bosch sensor but connecting it to a single wire loom with the two pins reversed?
Why are you removing wires?
Re: S6 knock sensor prob
Hi Paul I was going to ask you about it at the weekend but ya had a lot on.
I thought I may have a wiring issue originally as i had very low reading between 0-7.1 so I tried it by wiring it direct to the ecu C26 sensor C29 ground (which I think is right) so
I've since swoped the original for a Bosch sensor & wired 2 wires direct to the ecu C26 & c29 bypassing the original wiring incase there was a fault but get the exact same readings
I even get the same readings when both ks wires are unplugged from the ecu ? I thought I shouldn't get a reading at all
Cheers drew
I thought I may have a wiring issue originally as i had very low reading between 0-7.1 so I tried it by wiring it direct to the ecu C26 sensor C29 ground (which I think is right) so
I've since swoped the original for a Bosch sensor & wired 2 wires direct to the ecu C26 & c29 bypassing the original wiring incase there was a fault but get the exact same readings
I even get the same readings when both ks wires are unplugged from the ecu ? I thought I shouldn't get a reading at all
Cheers drew
Re: S6 knock sensor prob
that is not correct i feel.
There is a jumper on the carrier board to select the knock ground pin, and I suspect your various combinations are all not correct in some way or other. The Control board has a dedicated knock ground, or you use the main ground (not analogue ground).
If you have a dedicated knock ground wire, then it needs to ultimately find it's way to the knock ground on the control board, which I am sure has some tracks on the carrier, but not sure of the physicality of it all.
There is a jumper on the carrier board to select the knock ground pin, and I suspect your various combinations are all not correct in some way or other. The Control board has a dedicated knock ground, or you use the main ground (not analogue ground).
If you have a dedicated knock ground wire, then it needs to ultimately find it's way to the knock ground on the control board, which I am sure has some tracks on the carrier, but not sure of the physicality of it all.
Re: S6 knock sensor prob
Cheers Paul ill have a look at the weekend
Drew
Ps all syvecs come with knock control can the ecu's kc be upgraded to even better and wots the advantages
Thanks drew
Drew
Ps all syvecs come with knock control can the ecu's kc be upgraded to even better and wots the advantages
Thanks drew
Re: S6 knock sensor prob
Hi Drew,
The "Basic Knock Control" that all the Syvecs ECUs come with works very well and is enough for most applications.
If your car is used on the road and/or visit the circuit once every now and then this is probably the best for you.
The "Advanced Knock Control" which is an option when buying the Syvecs ECUs allows for much more control over every aspect of the Knock Control itself.
You can set the Gain for each cylinder instead of a general Gain. Furthermore you have control over the "Knock window" which is an amount of crankshaft degrees BTDC and ATDC where Knock normally takes place. Any random Noise outside the Knock window will therefore not lead to Timing retards.
You will also have 2 levels of severeness for Knock Retard which can be setup with different thresholds and timing retard amount. You could for example retard 0.25* when a small knock incident happens and 2* for every severe incident.
You can also set the amount of Knock Free engine cycles are needed to reinstate timing and how large the reinstate step is in terms of timing degrees.
If you are a frequent user of FFS you also have options to mask the knock control for a certain time after a GearCut and you may even Reset the accumulated knock retard on each GearCut. There are still more features left but I'm sure you get the picture.
Basic Knock Control is what I order for my customers 90% of the time because it works and is very effective.
Advanced Knock Control is worth the extra money when the Car is a Full-time Race Car. This is the only time I would normally opt to order Advanced Knock.
Perhaps it's best you have a word with Paul who I assume is your mapper if you want to know more.
Cheers,
Jasper.
The "Basic Knock Control" that all the Syvecs ECUs come with works very well and is enough for most applications.
If your car is used on the road and/or visit the circuit once every now and then this is probably the best for you.
The "Advanced Knock Control" which is an option when buying the Syvecs ECUs allows for much more control over every aspect of the Knock Control itself.
You can set the Gain for each cylinder instead of a general Gain. Furthermore you have control over the "Knock window" which is an amount of crankshaft degrees BTDC and ATDC where Knock normally takes place. Any random Noise outside the Knock window will therefore not lead to Timing retards.
You will also have 2 levels of severeness for Knock Retard which can be setup with different thresholds and timing retard amount. You could for example retard 0.25* when a small knock incident happens and 2* for every severe incident.
You can also set the amount of Knock Free engine cycles are needed to reinstate timing and how large the reinstate step is in terms of timing degrees.
If you are a frequent user of FFS you also have options to mask the knock control for a certain time after a GearCut and you may even Reset the accumulated knock retard on each GearCut. There are still more features left but I'm sure you get the picture.
Basic Knock Control is what I order for my customers 90% of the time because it works and is very effective.
Advanced Knock Control is worth the extra money when the Car is a Full-time Race Car. This is the only time I would normally opt to order Advanced Knock.
Perhaps it's best you have a word with Paul who I assume is your mapper if you want to know more.
Cheers,
Jasper.